We head to the Hutongs today. It seems that the hutongs are pretty much a maze and guided tours are the offered or you could end up walking forever and in the wrong direction as there really is a lot to see within a hutong enclave.
There are only about 5% of hutongs left in modern Beijing as most were torn down during the cultural revolution to make way for new buildings.
There are only about 5% of hutongs left in modern Beijing as most were torn down during the cultural revolution to make way for new buildings.
The tip for you: "Don't book the Hutong tour at the Hotel that you are staying at." If you do, it will cost RMB180 per person.
Instead get the taxi to drop you at the Hutong area in main Beijing city where you will see many pedicabs (basically pedal trishaws) all operated by the same operator as the one that supplies the tour desk at the hotel. The company has a number of English and Mandarin speaking tour guides who are also drivers. The English speaking ones are obviously more expensive but you can bargain the rates directly with them there.
Instead get the taxi to drop you at the Hutong area in main Beijing city where you will see many pedicabs (basically pedal trishaws) all operated by the same operator as the one that supplies the tour desk at the hotel. The company has a number of English and Mandarin speaking tour guides who are also drivers. The English speaking ones are obviously more expensive but you can bargain the rates directly with them there.
We met a young, friendly and helpful driver who offered to do RMB180 for Alexis, Mum and me with a tip at the end for him if we liked his tour, which we did because he was very informative and spoke slowly and patiently considering how bad my mandarin is. Plus he had to peddle the 3 of us around.
I really felt very sorry for him at the end of the tour. He is only 23 and does not have a great education and comes from a village outside Beijing. Street smart, boyish and quite resourceful he has been at this for two years and loves Summertime best because that's when he gets at least 20 trips around the hutong area. In Winter, when it is as cold as it was today, he is lucky to get 5 trips. Still, it is a hard life and yes, it makes me grateful for what all we have.
We stop at the most 'done-up' Hutong in the enclave as it has been specially refurbished for the Olympics last year. For an additional 20RMB you get an English guided tour of this small home which has also been let out to visiting Olympic visitors during last year's games. Some of the highlights, we came across inside this particular hutong:
Show case of a typical bridal chamber
with the groom and bride's clothing
Here are some of the areas that we pass in the Hutong tour which lasted for about an hour plus. It was worth the money and very educational. So highly recommended in my books.
We stop outside a special Buddhist temple inside the Hutong
So serene inside
This is Prince Chun's home.
He was one of the fractions that caused the start of the Boxer Rebellion.
Pu Yi, the last Emperor was a distant relative and spent age 1 to 3
living in this home before he ascended the throne.
Across the Prince's home is this guy taking a dive into the icy cold water.
He says that he does this every morning to promote circulation
In the evening before dinner we go shopping to Xi Dan shopping street. I highly recommend this place to get your shopping fix and the particular mall to head to is on top of the Beijing Hwa Hotel. Just to be sure that you are at the right spot, across the road from this mall you will see the international brands including the H&M and Zara stores. The mall itself sells very local fashion and is supposedly (according to the Concierge at Novotel Peace) where the Beijingers get their clothes. Because everything is made in China, the latest fashions (even to rival HK) are here. It was too cold to whip out my camera outdoors so I only took some pics on my iphone of the department store below which had lots of local candy and a picture of the fashion floor (before I got stopped by Security).
Assortment of local candy
With the food scares in China, I decided not to try any
even though, I am sure they were safe
6 to 7 floors of the BEST street wear shops that rival or (even) beat HK!
In the evening, we headed to Jin Bao Plaza very near the Novotel Peace Hotel called Beijing Da Dong. I got this off the 2009 Miele Guide and this is their vote for the best restaurant in Beijing. Very fancy fare and delightfully presented. Bill came up to about RMB1800 but it was good as we took all the signature dishes and for once did not pig out.
The 2009 Miele Guide votes Da Dong the best restaurant in Beijing
A decidedly posh interior
You pass their specialty kitchen coming in to the place.
Here is the Peking Duck Kiln and preparation area
A wall of different accolades that they have won
Delicious and beautifully presented Lobster Sashimi
which came with three mixing sauces
Lobster noodles - this is one portion. Delicately flavoured.
Q ordered this for Alexis as she likes rice and prawns.
Cost almost RMB360 (SGD60 plus) for this! But it also came with a glass of wine.
Still pretty pricey by any standards.
Beef with julienne of red onions and lemon rind.
It was very good but also another pricey one
- 800RMB (SGD160) for this alone.
Dou Miao - Simple but flavourful
Finally, what we came for - the Peking Duck! Carved at the table!
Glad that Q had the presence of mind to order HALF
instead of one whole duck which would have been way too much!
8 enticing condiments presented in this custom made plate.
Three ways to eat the Duck.
Option 1: Dip the crispy duck skin in sugar
Option 2: Add the sweet sauce and any other condiment and wrap in the handmade crepe
(their crepes were a little too thick for my liking)
Final Option: Same as 2 but encase within a sesame seed crispy bun
(this was interesting and I have not seen it in any other Peking Duck restaurant)
My verdict was that the Duck was "ok". A bit like what I have had in Min Jiang at one-north in SG, where it is good because it is not overly oily however you also lose the crispiness that I like in the skin. The crepes although home made were a tad too thick. I like the type which is paper thin. Loved the tray with all the condiments as they are not shared. Every one eating gets their own set - Alexis got one too!
I would still recommend coming here to experience it as it is Beijing or Chinese fine dining at its very best, beautifully and delicately flavoured with alot of attention to detail and creativity in the presentation and service.
Alexis busy making her own version of Peking Duck
Dessert was complimentary. Those tiny tangerines were delightful.
You could pop one whole into your mouth, skin, seeds and all and just munch.
We decided to try another speciality dessert recommended on the menu.
This was called "Dandelion" and it was assembled to look like one.
Beautifully presented - check out the flower pot and the parsley grass.
Close up!
Mine, all mine!!
2 comments:
Elaine, time for YOUR very own printed magazine. I love the things you post!
Thanks so much for the encouragement!! I am far from ready for anything published. Who are you btw?
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